Dino1msflalmcscW

Portraits from Rome’s ‘dark movement’ scene of the 1980s

Tue 29 July 2014 14:04, UK

Diamanda Galás

There are all kinds of fashion movements that didn’t really have the presence in the US that they did in Europe, but the Italian “dark movement” is such a cool collection of looks I’m pushing for a second wave of it here in the States. You can see echoes of the British New Romantics, but a gothier version of that. Photographer Dino Ignani‘s “Dark” portraiture shows several shades of gray of the dark dandies, who often sport looks that are kind of Jesus and Mary Chain-meets-early-Madonna-chic.

The “Dark” collection, taken primarily in Rome between ’83 and ’85, showcases the patrons of clubs, movies, concerts and theater events associated with the dark movement. Of course nothing stays non-commodified in the modern world, and Ignani is quick to point out how rapidly the look was appropriated by high-end fashion. From his site, loosely translated:

Unfortunately, the elements that the youth of the “dark movement” had chosen to oppose the dominant aesthetic and stand out from the conformist crowd (excessive makeup, predominant use of black clothing, necklaces and other jewelry in abundance, hairstyles showy and exaggerated) were later absorbed, processed, emptied of sense of rebellion and re-presented as harmless, “fashionable” symbols.

Ah yes, from hippies to punk to grunge, nothing stays inimitable when there’s a buck to be made, but Ignani’s gallery shows some great looks from an innovative crowd of folks with naught but a frilly collar, shit tons of of eyeliner and hairspray and sulky expressions. The top photo is of avant garde diva Diamanda Galás–surely a style icon for the wee dark ones of that era (and beyond). Check her live performance of “The Litanies of Satan” at the end, should you feel inclined to commune with the dark forces.

Olimpo